
The fabric of the pioneers to be discovered at the Hôtel des Arts in Toulon
Textiles, now a matrix for space, are being celebrated at the Hôtel des Arts in Toulon. Through a hundred works, the exhibition "Follow the Thread! Design & Textile" weaves a history of creation driven by innovative designers.
Long relegated to the status of domestic ornament, textiles have now established themselves as a medium of the moment. A key player in structural and aesthetic revolutions, the medium is being showcased at the Hôtel des Arts in Toulon until October 31. The exhibition "Follow the Thread! Design & Textile" offers a historical deep dive through a hundred works from prestigious collections such as those of the Centre Pompidou and the Mobilier National. Opening with pioneering figures like Sonia Delaunay and Élise Djo-Bourgeois, the exhibition highlights the dialogue initiated between different sectors such as furniture, fashion, and architecture. It is an opportunity to recall not only the role women have played in the history of textiles but also the beginnings of a modernity where pattern and weave become one with space.
An intimate history is followed by the more impersonal yet universal story of synthetic fibers. The 1960s saw the birth of jersey, and stretch fabrics broke free from their frames to embrace the shapes of the body as well as structural armatures, driven by designers like Pierre Paulin and Olivier Mourgue. From then on, textiles became a tool for industrial innovation. At the same time, artists and creators like Sheila Hicks and Simone Prouvé explored the porous boundaries between art, structure, and habitat.

Textiles: A Flexible Universe
The exhibition also highlights the creative repurposing of materials. From the radical proposals of Gaetano Pesce or the Droog Design collective in the 1990s, to the sculptural metal meshes of Dominique Perrault, Gaëlle Lauriot-Prévost, or Muller Van Severen, the thread sheds its flexibility to become a rigid architectural language. This evolution opens new horizons for a new generation embracing these fibers in an era of high technology and environmental responsibility. From the hybrid pieces of Hella Jongerius and Jeanne Goutelle, which blend digital weaving with ancestral craftsmanship, to the modular acoustic walls of Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, this exhibition invites you to trace the thread of a sector that is omnipresent in our lives.
Left: Pauline Esparon Arso Armchair, 2024 ©Adagp, Paris, 2026 © Les Arts Décoratifs / Christophe Dellière
Right: Marcel Wanders Knotted Chair, 1996 © Gaetano Pesce © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI/Bertrand Prévost/Dist. GrandPalaisRmn













